quick sizing update for Machina shawl

SO I’ve been trying–for the whole year so far–to design within my yarn limitations, because I’ve built up pretty decent stash without really being a comfortable-with-stash person, and there is a lot of yarn, and if I go haring off after every idea and buying flashy new yarn for it, I won’t use what’s here. (There is also the Expense to consider.) This has been going reasonably well! For the most part, my yarn stores are dwindling in a noticeable way. I might write more about it and my plans in a week or two, or in several months, going by my rate of posting here, but the main topic is a pattern update!

I’m going to try to be really clear without being so specific that no one ever buys a pattern from me again.

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MACHINA SHAWL SIZING:

I’ve had a lot of people comment on the desire for some larger sizes, so here’s a quick, informal sizing guide! It’s pretty rough, with no real yardage estimates–you’ll want more yarn than the basic pattern requires, because your starting point is going to be wider and you’ll work at the same rate of increase. (I would kind of recommend using extra yarn if you’ve got it anyway–my original idea for this was to add a final repeat of brioche rib, but I ran out and ended up liking the one-skein version anyway.)

Each size up adds about 3″-3.4″ to the size before, so going by memory, when this piece is worn like a capelet, the small collar is about 14″; the medium should end up being about 17″-17.4″ (the cast-on edge is a little tighter than the overall gauge), and the large should be 20″-20.4″.

SIZE SMALL: CO 65 sts. Follow instructions as written.

SIZE MEDIUM: CO 77 sts–and add one to the first […, kx] instruction in the main pattern–for example, if it says k5, k6; if it says k6, then k7. After that, follow the instructions as written. This is probably pretty intuitive if you’re working from the .PDF!

SIZE LARGE: CO 89 sts, and add two to the first […, kx].

In context, this should be pretty obvious, and the pattern is easy to discern. If you’ve got the pattern on hand and that doesn’t make sense for you, please let me know!

If you don’t have the pattern, and want it, here’s the link to the current .PDF! It currently costs a mere $5.

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Spring Feverish 2!

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Spring Feverish 2 is live! springfeverishsmallgauge

It’s a little scarf!springfeverish2main

There’s also a centered decrease discussion post just past this one, if you’re interested in that kind of thing. (It’s related to this kerchief.) I’ve actually gotten some kind notes and encouragement on the Terrible Techniques series, which is a little bit beyond my ken, though I really appreciate it in a sort of baffled way. Thanks!

Doing Things Wrong With Nick: s2tog tbl k1 psso!

 

 

IMG_20170318_190320756_HDR (1024x616)I’m about to release Spring Feverish 2! It’s been delayed a little, in part because I could not get the right drape;  I knit about four samples before I had one that matched the original in terms of fabric. This pattern is pretty beginner-friendly, featuring very traditional wave lace and a relaxing garter-stitch background/finishing, but it does have one thing to watch out for, so I decided to do a quick Techniques post about that just in case. If you’ve already knit Feather, you’ll be fine–this faux-cable decrease is the same, but written differently–less efficiently, but more clearly, I hope, by making the difference between it and a s2kpo more obvious. I hope you will forgive the length of the shorthand.

s2tog tbl k1 psso!

This decrease functions just like a s2kpo, but instead of making the stitches line up neatly, it twists them and creates a faux-cable column. You can always use s2kpo if you like! And really, the only reason to work the long, alternative decrease is to get the look of the samples. But this decrease probably takes longer to read than it does to work.

This decrease is worked over 3 stitches.

s2tog tbl–slip two together through the back loop. At this point, these slipped stitches just rest on the RH needle.

k1–knit 1. In this case, the 1 is the next stitch.

psso–pass the pair of slipped stitches, together, over the knit stitch (k1).

If you don’t like to knit through the back loop, see below!

sskpo.

You can also, just to complicate things, work this as a sl1 sl1 k1 psso, by handling your slipped stitches separately: over three stitches, slip one and then slip one again, separately, as if to knit. Then continue as above: knit one, and pass the slipped stitches over (together). You’re still slipping two stitches, and they still twist at the angle you need to create the faux cable. This is as neat or neater than s2tog tbl.
In fact, the only real reason I’ve gone from using sskpo to using the overlong s2tog tbl psso notation is that the rather long second version is less easily confused with s2kpo.

Both are different from the more standard centered two-stitch decrease:

s2kpo.

When you s2kpo (which is also worked over 3 stitches, and also makes a nice centered decrease), it goes like this:

s2–slip two together knitwise, as if you were working a k2tog and stopped halfway. These stitches also temporarily rest on the RH needle.

k–knit the next stitch.

po–pass the slipped stitches, together, over the knit stitch (k).

This creates a straight, slightly raised stockinette st line. In the photo below, the green Spring Feverish 2 kerchief is worked using s2kpo exclusively; in the pink Malabrigo Yarns Rastita sample, it’s s2tog tbl k1 psso, and you can see the faux-cable texture-rich line this creates.

Doing It Wrong: Techniques with Nick!

If you know how to bind off with a picot hem, you already know exactly how to work a bind-off hem the way I do it. I’m not even sure this technique is that odd, really–I just couldn’t easily find a tutorial that worked bindoff knit hems the way I do, and I think this way is pretty easy; it doesn’t require sewing.

Once you’ve worked the number of rows called for by your pattern, you’re ready to bind off.

This bindoff hem is pretty easy–you just begin at the beginning of your round (in this case), knit the live stitch on your needle together with the corresponding purl-bump, and do the same with the next live stitch and its purl bump. Pass the first worked cast-off stitch over the second the way you would with a basic bind-off, and continue in this fashion until all live stitches are consumed. Then break yarn, weave in ends, and you’re done.
The only tricky part to this is figuring out which purl bumps to knit together with the live stitches, and that’s pretty easy once you get started–the stitches are all in the same row, so when you pull on a purl-side bump the next stitch shows tension. With this example, it’s even easier, because of the stripes: the purl bumps to be picked up and worked are the MC bumps right above the last CC bumps. perplex

As you work around, you get a little chain stitch bind-off ridge. I do not like it very much during the work-in-progress stage, but it flattens out with blocking. (Blocking is kind of important to this piece, because of that. I give the Grays Harbor cowl a gentle wet block just to even everything out. ) dsc_0180-1024x678

Once you’ve worked all your stitches (and technically, woven in your ends, I guess), you’re done!