It’s a little scarf!
There’s also a centered decrease discussion post just past this one, if you’re interested in that kind of thing. (It’s related to this kerchief.) I’ve actually gotten some kind notes and encouragement on the Terrible Techniques series, which is a little bit beyond my ken, though I really appreciate it in a sort of baffled way. Thanks!
I’m about to release Spring Feverish 2! It’s been delayed a little, in part because I could not get the right drape; I knit about four samples before I had one that matched the original in terms of fabric. This pattern is pretty beginner-friendly, featuring very traditional wave lace and a relaxing garter-stitch background/finishing, but it does have one thing to watch out for, so I decided to do a quick Techniques post about that just in case. If you’ve already knit Feather, you’ll be fine–this faux-cable decrease is the same, but written differently–less efficiently, but more clearly, I hope, by making the difference between it and a s2kpo more obvious. I hope you will forgive the length of the shorthand.
s2tog tbl k1 psso!
This decrease functions just like a s2kpo, but instead of making the stitches line up neatly, it twists them and creates a faux-cable column. You can always use s2kpo if you like! And really, the only reason to work the long, alternative decrease is to get the look of the samples. But this decrease probably takes longer to read than it does to work.
This decrease is worked over 3 stitches.
s2tog tbl–slip two together through the back loop. At this point, these slipped stitches just rest on the RH needle.
k1–knit 1. In this case, the 1 is the next stitch.
psso–pass the pair of slipped stitches, together, over the knit stitch (k1).
If you don’t like to knit through the back loop, see below!
You can also, just to complicate things, work this as a sl1 sl1 k1 psso, by handling your slipped stitches separately: over three stitches, slip one and then slip one again, separately, as if to knit. Then continue as above: knit one, and pass the slipped stitches over (together). You’re still slipping two stitches, and they still twist at the angle you need to create the faux cable. This is as neat or neater than s2tog tbl.
In fact, the only real reason I’ve gone from using sskpo to using the overlong s2tog tbl psso notation is that the rather long second version is less easily confused with s2kpo.
Both are different from the more standard centered two-stitch decrease:
When you s2kpo (which is also worked over 3 stitches, and also makes a nice centered decrease), it goes like this:
s2–slip two together knitwise, as if you were working a k2tog and stopped halfway. These stitches also temporarily rest on the RH needle.
k–knit the next stitch.
po–pass the slipped stitches, together, over the knit stitch (k).
This creates a straight, slightly raised stockinette st line. In the photo below, the green Spring Feverish 2 kerchief is worked using s2kpo exclusively; in the pink Malabrigo Yarns Rastita sample, it’s s2tog tbl k1 psso, and you can see the faux-cable texture-rich line this creates.
If you know how to bind off with a picot hem, you already know exactly how to work a bind-off hem the way I do it. I’m not even sure this technique is that odd, really–I just couldn’t easily find a tutorial that worked bindoff knit hems the way I do, and I think this way is pretty easy; it doesn’t require sewing.
Once you’ve worked the number of rows called for by your pattern, you’re ready to bind off.
This bindoff hem is pretty easy–you just begin at the beginning of your round (in this case), knit the live stitch on your needle together with the corresponding purl-bump, and do the same with the next live stitch and its purl bump. Pass the first worked cast-off stitch over the second the way you would with a basic bind-off, and continue in this fashion until all live stitches are consumed. Then break yarn, weave in ends, and you’re done.
The only tricky part to this is figuring out which purl bumps to knit together with the live stitches, and that’s pretty easy once you get started–the stitches are all in the same row, so when you pull on a purl-side bump the next stitch shows tension. With this example, it’s even easier, because of the stripes: the purl bumps to be picked up and worked are the MC bumps right above the last CC bumps.
As you work around, you get a little chain stitch bind-off ridge. I do not like it very much during the work-in-progress stage, but it flattens out with blocking. (Blocking is kind of important to this piece, because of that. I give the Grays Harbor cowl a gentle wet block just to even everything out. )
Once you’ve worked all your stitches (and technically, woven in your ends, I guess), you’re done!
If the provisional crochet cast-on hem is totally new to you, then it might not be totally intuitive when I say “unzip the crochet chain” in a tutorial or pattern, though it will become pretty obvious after you’ve worked this technique once or twice. If it is familiar to you, a step-by-step on this is going to be incredibly tedious, so I’d probably skip this little post.
Unzipping a Provisional Crochet Chain (for the Provisional Crochet Cast-On):
Behold the crochet chain! And especially that last bump/loop at the end, which leads into the end of the waste yarn, there:
Work this loop free.
Now you’ve got the end worked out. Pull this end.
Zip! Your crochet chain is unraveled! This has only been a drill/tutorial. If this were a real crochet chain cast-on, you would have had your foundation loops on a spare needle before raveling. I hope.
Poda is a unique take on the bun hat trend–a broad headband with the coverage of a hat, and space at the top for a high ponytail or a messy bun. It’s a pretty efficient project, and knits up in just one ball of Lionbrand Amazing, or about 140 yards of Dk-to-worsted handspun.
You can also use the pattern as a guideline for a more traditional headband (knit it in sock yarn on smaller needles, and there won’t be as much width, for example). If you knit this and put photos on instagram, #podabunhat is a good tag to use!
Thanks for looking!
Frank is a good basic watchcap-style beanie; the warm tweed yarn really makes the hat!
It’s a structural sibling to my other hat, Driggs, but a little less absurdist, so you can knit one for yourself if you are a serious person with serious business to attend. Professional in a cold winter city? Knit this up in the luxury yarn substitute for the one I used (Queensland Collection Kathmandu=Jo Sharp Silk Road) for a warm, presentable topper.
Wear it with the brim folded for a classic watchcap look; wear it flat (this works at least for smaller sizes) and slouch it slightly for a look that is more casual and modern.
(There’s no reason why you can’t knit and wear Driggs as well, but it has a different effect when paired with the business casual ensemble I’m imagining.)